Winter pruning of grapes is an important measure for grape shaping. The correctness of winter pruning is related to the future, especially the yield of grapes, fruit quality and labor intensity in the coming year, which will directly affect economic benefits. So how does the winter pruning of grapes work? In this edition, the winter shear technology of grapes is organized as follows for reference by fruit farmers.
Grapevines have something to know before cutting
Determine expected production for the coming year. Determine the expected yield based on variety, tree age, tree vigor, optimal ear weight, and kernel weight. Generally, 2500 ~ 4500 kg / mu is suitable for high-quality orchards of adult age; 1500 ~ 3000 kg / mu is suitable for young trees that bear fruit in the first year.
Determine the number of female branches and bud eyes. According to the variety, stand type, tree age, tree vigor, bud eye fullness, branches, growth status of adjacent trees, and flower bud differentiation characteristics of the variety, determine the number of female branches and bud eyes. Victoria, Ruby Seedless, Tota No.8, first-year saplings, and horizontal trellis shaping generally leave about 1800 fruiting branches per acre, leaving 3 to 4 buds per fruiting branch, and 6000 effective per acre bud. Red earth, summer black and other varieties, tall, wide, vertical or "V" -shaped frame, trees with more than 2 years of fruit, generally leave 1200 to 1500 fruit female branches per acre, each fruit female branches leave 8 to 10 Buds, 10,000 to 15,000 effective buds per mu. Beauty finger, golden finger and other varieties, tall, wide, vertical or "V" -shaped frame, the tree with more than the second year fruit, generally leave 1500 ~ 2000 fruiting female branches per acre, each fruiting female branch with 10 ~ 12 buds 18000 ~ 24000 effective buds are left per acre. (League)
Grape winter shears should be "suited to the tree"
1. Cultivate a good tree structure by trimming, so that the branches are evenly and reasonably distributed on the shelf surface, and fully receive the sun, so as to achieve "one length and two short". The so-called "one-long" means that the extended head of the tree body must be long to facilitate the early covering of the shelf; the so-called "two-short" is the fruiting branch and the preparation branch, which must be appropriately short to ensure the annual fruiting site.
2. Pruning according to the growth of the tree. For stronger trees, cut lightly to ease the tree's vigor; for weak trees, cut again to increase the tree's vigor.
3. Different varieties and different pruning methods. As a result, varieties of flower buds are easily formed at the base of the mother branch, such as summer black, flame-free nucleus, giant peaks, and Toto, etc., which are suitable for short-end trimming of 1-2 buds; red earth, suitable for medium-length trimming of 3-4 buds. Varieties that are not easy to bear fruit, such as Cresson, the beauty finger, should be trimmed with long shoots and leave 5 ~ 7 buds.
4, different cultivation postures, pruning methods are different. Generally, under relaxed cultivation, such as scaffolding, H-frames, etc., the flower buds at the base are better, and short branches are often used for pruning. Hedges, etc. are easy to cause long branches and overgrown cultivation frames, and are generally suitable for trimming of long and medium shoots. (Yang Junping)
Scientific winter shear grapes yield
Winter grape shears are usually carried out from December to January. A large amount of nutrients will be lost prematurely, causing the tree to not grow vigorously in the coming year, and too late will easily cause "hurt flow", resulting in weakening or even dead trees.
Pruning methods are generally divided into long tips, middle tips, short tips and long, middle and short tips combined pruning. Long-tip pruning leaves more than 8 sprouts. It is suitable for varieties with strong growth and fruiting branches that are not prone to fruit branches, such as longan, white chicken heart, milk, etc., but reserve branches must be kept and updated every year. Mid-point trimming leaves 4 to 7 bud eyes, suitable for medium-growing varieties. Short tip pruning leaves about 3 bud eyes, which is suitable for varieties with weak growth potential. Generally, fruiting bases are more likely to occur at the base of female branches. Long, middle and short shoots combined with pruning can make use of the bud eye results of good parts of the fruiting mother branch, delay the rise of the fruiting part while maintaining the strength of the branch and regulating the fruit amount. When renewing the main vine (extended branch) and perennial vines, long-term pruning is often used; in order not to cause the fruiting part to rise and the lower part to be bare, the fruiting mother branch and the preparative branch are respectively pruned with middle and short tips. No matter what kind of pruning method, only by closely combining update pruning can we get a good harvest every year. After 3 to 5 years of general results, we must pay attention to updating.
Renewal method â‘ Single branch renewal of the result. When pruning in winter, no preparation branches are left, only fruiting mother branches are left. After spring germination, the new shoots with good growth in the lower part are selected and cultivated as preparation vines. When pruning in winter, all the upper ends are cut off and the reserved preparation vines are cut as Fruiting branch. This method has few strips, good ventilation and light, easy to manage, and is suitable for varieties with strong branching force. â‘¡ The two branches of the fruiting branch are renewed. As a result, the mother branch was cut to a required length, and then a well-developed branch was selected near the base of the mother branch, and 2 buds were cut as a preliminary branch. In the following year, the mother branch is extracted and the fruiting branch blooms, and the prepared branch germinates new vines. When cutting in winter, the fruiting vine branches can be cut together. The mother branch, the one at the rear as the reserve branch, and so on. The advantage of this method is that it is easy to cultivate new shoots and is suitable for varieties with low germination rate. However, due to the increase of new shoots, they shade each other, and have poor ventilation and light transmission. â‘¢ Renewal method of perennial. Whole plant renewal: When all branches and vines lose their productivity, remove the old vines from the base at one time, and reshape the ground with sprouted branches. This method has a great impact on yield and should be used as little as possible. Partial renewal: When part of the old man results abnormally, cultivate the annual branch from the base to replace the old man. The small update amount of this method is the main measure to maintain stable production.
Key points for pruning â‘ The pith of grape branches is large, and the small part of the tissue is loose. After pruning, the water is easily lost through the cutout, so that the buds close to the cutout are withered or frozen. For short varieties, the buds can be cut at the previous section. â‘¡ When thinning or shrinking, try to avoid causing relative wounds. It is better to separate several wounds evenly on the branches and vines. When sparsely cutting, the residual pile of 0.8 cm must be kept and not close to the mother vine. â‘¢ Cut off disease and insect branches, remove tendrils and bindings. (Xue Yuhua)
Grape winter pruning simple operation "four steps"
Pruning branches Pruning dead branches, diseased and diseased branches, long branches and other useless branches that must be cut. Grape branches have loose tissues, large pith, and moisture and nutrients are easy to lose. When pruning the shoot tips, cut it at 3 ~ 5 cm above the cutting buds or at the upper end of the cutting buds.
Thinning and thinning is to equip the main branch with a set of fruiting branches at a certain distance, and completely remove the unsuitable branching group from the base. When cutting branches, control the cut to be about 1 cm away from the base. Do not cut under the base closely. After the residual pile dries, cut it from the base.
Select the update method to trim the result mother branch â‘ single branch update method. During winter pruning, only the bearing mother branch is left without the preparation branch. Two new shoots are left when the branch is established in the following year. The upper new shoot is used as the fruit, and the lower new shoot is used as the next year to prepare the fruit branch. In the second year of winter shearing, the upper fruit-bearing branches are cut off, and the lower prepared fruit branches are pruned with short or medium-long branches, and so on. â‘¡ Two-branch update method. During winter pruning, two fruiting female branches are left in one fruiting part. The upper branches are pruned with middle and long shoots as the result shoots, and the lower shoots are pruned with short shoots (usually two buds are left) to be used as preparation shoots. In the second year of winter shearing, the upper fruit-bearing branches were cut off, and the lower branches remained 1 long and 1 short, reciprocating.
Cuttings â‘ short tip. Keep 1 to 4 knots, suitable for mediocre or weak varieties, and short vineyards with a short annual growth period and stricter pruning in summer. â‘¡ in the tip. Leave 5 to 7 knots. It is suitable for mature trees with weak growth potential and mature trees with weak growth potential. â‘¢ Long tip. Leave 8 to 12 knots, suitable for strong or vigorous growth species, and trees that are pruned extensively in summer and have not been fruited before flowering. (Wang Yuanjun)
Grape Winter Shears
The cutting sprouts that protect the cutting buds should be cut 3 to 4 cm above the cutting buds. If the internode is short, it can be cut on the previous section of the cut bud. The cut should be smooth to prevent rupture, so as not to affect the bud germination.
Short piles should be left when sparse branches can be removed from the base. Short piles should be left after sparse branches. At the same time, avoid sparse branches and wounds, so as not to affect the unblocking of the unblocking tissue.
To avoid sparse wounds on the main vine, try to avoid stalk wounds, so as not to seriously weaken the growth of the shoots above the wound.
Reasonably determine the cut length. The cut branches must be fully mature. In areas where space is available, the branches and vines can be appropriately extended to occupy the shelf as soon as possible. Varieties with strong growth and low seed bud rate at the base should be trimmed with medium and long shoots; those with moderate or weak growth and with high seed bud rate at the base should be trimmed with short and medium shoots.
If the branch group is renewed, if the single branch is adopted, the fruiting mother branch can be pruned shortly without preparing branches. In the next year, in the new branch drawn from the fruiting mother branch, the upper branch is used to remove the inflorescence on the lower branch Make preparation branches, remove the fruiting branches during winter shearing, and perform short-end pruning on the preparation branches. If double-branching is used, one fruiting branch and one preparation branch are left at each fruiting position. The upper fruiting branch is still pruned according to the middle and long shoots, and the lower branch is reserved with 2 to 3 shoots.
The perennial branch renews the perennial branch that weakens at the apex and still has good results at the back end, and retracts to the strong branch. For perennial branches with good branches at the apex and bare branches at the back, the vines can be renewed and new plants can be cultivated to bear fruit. For weakly growing perennials, if there is still the ability to bear fruit and there is no sprouting at the base, you can shorten the old branches of the old vines and then tie the old vines upright to help the weak vines turn strong. For perennial vines, if they are no longer able to bear fruit, they should be removed.
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